A night on Lan Ha Bay.
The deck of a quiet junk as the karst islands turn black against the dusk, away from the Ha Long crowds.

We're shaping this page · Trips already planned on request
The length of a country, top to bottom.
Limestone islands rising out of a jade sea, rice terraces stacked up mountain valleys, a lantern-lit old town by the water, and two great cities a thousand kilometres apart. Vietnam is best travelled in one long line, north to south, and that is exactly how we plan it.
Why Vietnam
Vietnam unspools along a thousand-mile coast, and the joy is travelling its length. The cities bookend it: Hanoi's old quarter and street food in the north, Ho Chi Minh City's energy in the south. Between them the landscapes everyone comes for: the karst islands of Ha Long and Lan Ha, the rice terraces of Sapa, the river caves of Ninh Binh. And the heart: the imperial city of Hue and the lantern-lit old town of Hoi An on the central coast. We thread it as one journey, not a loop.
The places
Sample journey · Vietnam · 12 days
One version of a Vietnam journey, not the only one. Built one way, north to south, around your pace.
The old quarter, the street food, and the slow lake at its heart.
An overnight cruise through the karst, kayaking into hidden lagoons.
Rowed through the river caves of Trang An, "Ha Long on land".
+ The south
Moments that stay
The deck of a quiet junk as the karst islands turn black against the dusk, away from the Ha Long crowds.
The old town after dark, silk lanterns on the water and paper boats drifting down the river.
A sampan sliding through low river caves into hidden valleys ringed by karst.
A plastic stool on a corner, a bowl of pho and egg coffee, the old quarter roaring past.
Rice paddies stepped up a whole mountainside, hill villages in the mist.
A floating market waking up, boats heaped with fruit on the brown river.
Good to know
A rewarding, varied country, with a few things that shape a trip:
Fly into Hanoi and out of Ho Chi Minh City (or the reverse) so you travel in one line; short internal flights and trains link the three regions. We plan the open-jaw routing.
Most nationalities use the official e-visa, valid up to 90 days, applied for online before travel; a passport valid six months is required. We confirm the current rule and help with the application.
The country is long, so timing depends on the stretch: the north is best March to May and September to November, the centre February to May, and the south December to April. We time the route to the season.
Always one way, north to south or south to north, never doubling back; the country is built for a line.
We favour quieter Lan Ha Bay and a smaller boat over the Ha Long crowds, for the same karst scenery in peace.
Ten to fourteen days covers the length comfortably; less and you pick one or two regions rather than the whole line.
Work in progress
We're still adding to this page: our own photos, the stays we trust and a map. The planning doesn't wait for it. We already plan Vietnam trips on request, from scratch, around how you travel.
“Vietnam is one country, end to end, from Hanoi to the Mekong. The page is still being written; the route can start with you now.”
The places
Where a trip goes, and why each stop earns its place.
A sample journey
A day-by-day route to start the conversation.
Essentials
Seasons, entry and getting around, in one place.
Photos and gallery
Our own photos, not stock.
Stays we trust
Hotels and camps we would book ourselves.
Not Vietnam this time?
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Best Year roundEast Africa
The plains, the herds and a coast to end on.
Still deciding?
Know your month, not your destination?
Tell us when you can travel and we'll suggest where it's at its best.